Korean Skincare Routine Guide: 10-Step Method, Product Order & Dermatology-Approved Tips 2025

The Korean 10-step skincare routine has become legendary worldwide, credited with the glass skin phenomenon and Korea's reputation for flawless complexions. But is it really necessary to use 10 products twice daily? What's the logic behind the order? And how do you adapt it for real life?

This comprehensive guide breaks down the famous Korean skincare routine, explains the science behind each step, distinguishes essential from optional steps, and shows you how to customize it for your skin type, lifestyle, and budget—with insights from Korean dermatologists.

Quick Overview:

• Full 10-Step: For special occasions, dedicated skincare enthusiasts, or evening routines
• Essential 5-Step: Daily minimum recommended by Korean dermatologists
• Morning Quick: 4 steps in under 5 minutes
• The Golden Rule: Thinnest to thickest texture, water-based before oil-based

Note: This guide focuses on daily homecare that complements professional dermatology treatments covered elsewhere on this site.

Understanding the Korean Skincare Philosophy

It's Not About 10 Products—It's About Layering

The Principle: Korean skincare prioritizes layering thin, targeted treatments rather than applying one heavy multi-purpose cream.

Western Approach:

• Morning: Wash + moisturizer + SPF (3 steps)
• Evening: Wash + night cream (2 steps)
• Focus: Simplicity, time-saving

Korean Approach:

• Morning: 4-7 steps
• Evening: 7-10 steps
• Focus: Prevention, targeted treatment, hydration layering

Why Koreans Layer:

1. Better absorption: Light layers penetrate better than one heavy product
2. Targeted treatment: Each product addresses specific concerns
3. Prevention over correction: Start young, maintain long-term
4. Customization: Mix and match for your skin's daily needs

The Complete 10-Step Korean Skincare Routine

EVENING ROUTINE (All 10 Steps)

Step 1: Oil-Based Cleanser (오일 클렌저)

Purpose: Remove makeup, sunscreen, sebum, and oil-based impurities

How It Works:

• Oil dissolves oil-based substances (makeup, SPF, sebum)
• Emulsifies with water for easy rinse-off
• Prepares skin for water-based cleanser

Product Types:

• Cleansing oil (liquid oil)
• Cleansing balm (solid oil)
• Oil-to-milk cleanser

Application:

1. Apply to dry face with dry hands
2. Massage gently for 30-60 seconds
3. Add water to emulsify (turns milky)
4. Rinse thoroughly with lukewarm water

When to Use: Evening only (if you wore makeup/sunscreen)

Skip If: You didn't wear makeup or sunscreen that day

Popular Korean Brands:

• Banila Co Clean It Zero (cleansing balm)
• DHC Deep Cleansing Oil
• Heimish All Clean Balm

Cost: ₩15,000-₩30,000 ($12-$23 USD) per jar/bottle, lasts 2-3 months

Step 2: Water-Based Cleanser (폼 클렌저)

Purpose: Remove water-based impurities (sweat, dirt) and residue from oil cleanser

Why Double Cleanse: Oil cleanser alone leaves residue; water cleanser ensures deep clean

Product Types:

• Foaming cleanser (most common)
• Gel cleanser
• Cream cleanser (for dry skin)
• Powder cleanser

Application:

1. Wet face with lukewarm water
2. Lather cleanser in hands
3. Gentle circular motions for 30-60 seconds
4. Rinse thoroughly—no residue should remain

Korean Dermatologist Tip: "The cleaner your skin, the better subsequent products absorb. But over-cleansing strips skin barrier—aim for 'clean but not tight' feeling."

Morning Use: Water-based cleanser only (skip oil cleanser)

Popular Korean Brands:

• COSRX Low pH Good Morning Gel Cleanser
• Innisfree Green Tea Foam Cleanser
• La Roche-Posay Toleriane Hydrating Gentle Cleanser

Cost: ₩8,000-₩20,000 ($6-$15 USD), lasts 2-3 months

Step 3: Exfoliator (각질 제거제) - Optional

Purpose: Remove dead skin cells, unclog pores, improve texture

Frequency: 1-3 times per week (NOT daily!)

Types:

Chemical Exfoliants (Preferred in Korea):

• AHA (Alpha Hydroxy Acids): Glycolic acid, lactic acid
  • For: Dry skin, dullness, fine lines, hyperpigmentation
  • Action: Surface exfoliation
• BHA (Beta Hydroxy Acid): Salicylic acid
  • For: Oily skin, acne, blackheads, large pores
  • Action: Penetrates pores, oil-soluble
• PHA (Polyhydroxy Acids): Gentler AHA
  • For: Sensitive skin

Physical Exfoliants:

• Scrubs with fine particles
• Peeling gels
• Less common in K-beauty (can be harsh)

Application:

• After cleansing, on dry skin
• Follow product instructions (leave-on or rinse-off)
• Start 1x/week, increase gradually

Important Warning: Never exfoliate if you're using:

• Prescription retinoids
• Receiving laser treatments
• Have active breakouts or irritation

Popular Korean Products:

• COSRX BHA Blackhead Power Liquid (salicylic acid)
• Some By Mi AHA BHA PHA 30 Days Miracle Toner
• Neogen Bio-Peel Gauze Peeling (physical + chemical)

Cost: ₩15,000-₩30,000 ($12-$23 USD), lasts 2-4 months

Step 4: Toner (토너/스킨)

Purpose: Balance pH, prep skin for absorption, provide first layer of hydration

Korean Toner vs. Western Toner:

• Western toner: Astringent, removes residue, alcohol-based (drying)
• Korean toner: Hydrating, pH-balancing, prepares skin for next steps

Application Methods:

7-Skin Method (Korean Technique):

• Pat thin layer of toner 7 times
• Wait 10 seconds between layers
• Creates intense hydration without heaviness

Cotton Pad Method:

• Soak cotton pad, swipe across face
• Gentle exfoliation + hydration
• Good for oily skin

Patting Method (Most Common):

• Pour into palms
• Pat gently onto face and neck
• Don't rub—pat until absorbed

Popular Korean Brands:

• Klairs Supple Preparation Facial Toner
• Etude House SoonJung pH 5.5 Relief Toner
• Laneige Cream Skin Refiner

Cost: ₩15,000-₩35,000 ($12-$27 USD), lasts 2-3 months

Step 5: Essence (에센스)

Purpose: Lightweight hydration + active ingredients for anti-aging and skin repair

What Is Essence: Hybrid between toner and serum—thicker than toner, lighter than serum

Key Ingredients (Common in Korean Essences):

• Fermented ingredients: Galactomyces, bifida, yeast extract (brightening, anti-aging)
• Hyaluronic acid: Multi-molecular weights for deep hydration
• Niacinamide: Brightening, pore-refining, oil control

Application:

1. Pour small amount into palms
2. Warm between hands
3. Press gently into face (don't rub)
4. Pat until fully absorbed

The Star Product: Missha Time Revolution First Treatment Essence (Korean dupe of SK-II)

Popular Korean Essences:

• Missha Time Revolution The First Treatment Essence RX
• COSRX Advanced Snail 96 Mucin Power Essence
• Innisfree Green Tea Seed Serum

Cost: ₩20,000-₩50,000 ($15-$38 USD), lasts 2-3 months

Korean Dermatologist Take: "Essences with fermented ingredients show measurable improvements in skin barrier function and hydration in clinical studies. This step is optional but beneficial for anti-aging."

Step 6: Serum/Ampoule (세럼/앰플)

Purpose: Concentrated treatment for specific concerns

Serum vs. Ampoule: Ampoules are more concentrated (think serum on steroids)

Choose Based on Your Concern:

For Acne:

• Ingredients: Niacinamide, tea tree, centella asiatica
• Example: Some By Mi Miracle Serum

For Brightening/Pigmentation:

• Ingredients: Vitamin C, niacinamide, arbutin
• Example: Klairs Freshly Juiced Vitamin C Serum

For Anti-Aging:

• Ingredients: Retinol, peptides, adenosine
• Example: The Ordinary Retinol 0.5% in Squalane

For Hydration:

• Ingredients: Hyaluronic acid, ceramides, peptides
• Example: Hada Labo Gokujyun Hyaluronic Acid Lotion

Application:

1. 2-3 drops or pumps
2. Warm between palms
3. Press into skin, focusing on concern areas
4. Pat until absorbed
5. Wait 1-2 minutes before next step

Can You Use Multiple Serums?: Yes, but maximum 2-3. Layer thin to thick.

Cost: ₩20,000-₩60,000 ($15-$46 USD), lasts 1-3 months

Step 7: Sheet Mask (시트 마스크) - Optional

Purpose: Intensive hydration + treatment boost

Frequency: 1-3 times per week (or daily for special occasions)

How Sheet Masks Work:

• Occlusive effect traps moisture and actives against skin
• Essence saturates skin for 15-20 minutes
• Instant plumping, glow effect

Popular Korean Sheet Mask Types:

• Hydrating: Hyaluronic acid, aloe
• Brightening: Vitamin C, niacinamide, pearl
• Soothing: Centella, tea tree, green tea
• Anti-aging: Collagen, peptides, ginseng

Application:

1. After serum, before moisturizer
2. Leave on 15-20 minutes (follow package instructions)
3. Remove and pat remaining essence into skin
4. Don't rinse—proceed to next steps

Korean Tip: Store masks in refrigerator for extra cooling, soothing effect

Popular Korean Brands:

• Mediheal (best-selling brand globally)
• Innisfree
• Leaders Insolution
• Dr. Jart+

Cost: ₩1,000-₩5,000 ($0.77-$3.85 USD) per mask

Korean Dermatologist Take: "Sheet masks provide temporary hydration boost but aren't necessary daily. Save for before events or when skin feels especially dehydrated."

Step 8: Eye Cream (아이 크림)

Purpose: Treat delicate eye area (dark circles, fine lines, puffiness)

Why Separate Eye Cream: Skin around eyes is thinner, more delicate, needs gentler formulation

Choose Based on Concern:

• Dark circles: Vitamin K, caffeine, niacinamide
• Puffiness: Caffeine, peptides, cooling ingredients
• Fine lines: Retinol (low %), peptides, adenosine
• Dryness: Ceramides, hyaluronic acid, squalane

Application:

1. Tiny amount (size of grain of rice for both eyes)
2. Dot around orbital bone
3. Gently pat with ring finger (gentlest pressure)
4. Never rub or pull eye area

Application:

1. Tiny amount (size of grain of rice for both eyes)
2. Dot around orbital bone
3. Gently pat with ring finger (gentlest pressure)
4. Never rub or pull eye area

When to Start: Korean dermatologists recommend starting in mid-20s for prevention

Popular Korean Eye Creams:

• Sulwhasoo Concentrated Ginseng Renewing Eye Cream
• Innisfree Jeju Orchid Eye Cream
• Mizon Snail Repair Eye Cream

Cost: ₩20,000-₩80,000 ($15-$62 USD), lasts 2-4 months

Step 9: Moisturizer (모이스처라이저/크림)

Purpose: Seal in all previous layers, provide hydration and barrier protection

Types by Skin Type:

For Oily Skin:

• Gel moisturizers
• Lightweight, water-based
• Non-comedogenic

For Dry Skin:

• Rich creams
• Contain ceramides, fatty acids
• Occlusive ingredients

For Combination Skin:

• Gel-cream hybrids
• Lightweight but nourishing

Application:

1. Dime-sized amount
2. Warm between palms
3. Press gently into skin
4. Include neck and décolletage

Don't Skip This Step: Even if you have oily skin! Proper moisture prevents overproduction of oil.

Popular Korean Moisturizers:

• Belif The True Cream Aqua Bomb (gel, for oily)
• Etude House SoonJung 2x Barrier Intensive Cream (for sensitive)
• Laneige Water Sleeping Mask (night moisturizer)

Cost: ₩15,000-₩50,000 ($12-$38 USD), lasts 2-3 months

Step 10: Sleeping Mask (수면 팩) - Optional

Purpose: Overnight occlusive treatment for extra hydration and repair

When to Use: 2-3 times per week or whenever skin feels extra dry

How It's Different from Regular Moisturizer:

• Thicker, more occlusive
• "Locks in" all previous steps overnight
• Washes off in morning

Popular Korean Sleeping Masks:

• Laneige Water Sleeping Mask (cult favorite)
• COSRX Ultimate Nourishing Rice Overnight Spa Mask
• Sulwhasoo Overnight Vitalizing Mask

Cost: ₩20,000-₩60,000 ($15-$46 USD), lasts 2-3 months

MORNING ROUTINE (Streamlined 4-7 Steps)

Step 1: Water-Based Cleanser

• Skip oil cleanser in morning (no makeup/sunscreen to remove)
• Just water-based cleanser or even just water if skin is dry

Step 2: Toner

• Hydrate and balance pH

Step 3: Essence/Serum

• Optional morning: If using active ingredients (vitamin C), apply now

Step 4: Eye Cream

• Optional but recommended

Step 5: Moisturizer

• Lightweight formula for daytime

Step 6: Sunscreen (선크림) - MOST IMPORTANT STEP

Purpose: Protect from UV damage (aging, pigmentation, cancer)

Korean Sunscreen Philosophy: "Sunscreen is skincare, not optional"

Types:

• Chemical: Absorbs UV rays, lightweight, no white cast
• Physical/Mineral: Reflects UV rays, thicker, white cast possible
• Hybrid: Combination of both

Application:

1. Amount: 1/4 teaspoon for face (more than you think!)
2. Apply as final step, wait 15 minutes before makeup
3. Reapply every 2 hours if outdoors

Popular Korean Sunscreens:

• Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun: Rice + Probiotics SPF50+ PA++++
• Isntree Hyaluronic Acid Watery Sun Gel SPF50+ PA++++
• Purito Daily Go-To Sunscreen SPF50+ PA++++

Cost: ₩12,000-₩25,000 ($9-$19 USD), lasts 1-2 months (with proper amount)

Korean Dermatologist Quote: "If you do nothing else, cleanse and use SPF50+ daily. This alone prevents 80% of visible aging."

The Essential 5-Step Routine (Dermatologist-Approved Minimum)

Korean dermatologists say 10 steps aren't necessary for everyone. Here's the minimum:

Morning (3-4 steps):

1. Cleanser (water-based)
2. Moisturizer
3. Sunscreen SPF50+
4. Optional: Serum (vitamin C for anti-aging)

Evening (5-6 steps):

1. Oil cleanser (if wore makeup/SPF)
2. Water-based cleanser
3. Toner
4. Serum (targeted treatment)
5. Moisturizer
6. Optional: Eye cream

Total time: Morning 5 minutes, evening 10 minutes

Cost: ₩100,000-₩200,000 ($77-$154 USD) for all products, lasts 2-3 months

Common Mistakes to Avoid

1. Using Too Many Products

Problem: "More is better" mentality Reality: Skin can only absorb limited amounts Solution: Max 2 products per category (2 serums okay, but not 5)

2. Wrong Order

Problem: Applying thick before thin blocks absorption Solution: Always thin → thick texture

3. Skipping Sunscreen

Problem: All anti-aging efforts wasted without SPF Solution: SPF50+ PA++++ every single day, even indoors

4. Over-Exfoliating

Problem: Daily acids strip skin barrier Solution: Exfoliate 1-3x per week maximum

5. Not Patch Testing

Problem: Using new product all over face immediately Solution: Test on jawline for 48 hours first

Adapting the Routine for Your Skin Type

Oily/Acne-Prone Skin

Focus: Lightweight hydration, oil control, pore care

Essential Steps:

• BHA exfoliant (2-3x/week)
• Niacinamide serum
• Gel moisturizer
• Mattifying sunscreen

Skip: Heavy creams, oils, occlusives

Dry/Dehydrated Skin

Focus: Deep hydration, barrier repair

Essential Steps:

• Hydrating toner (7-skin method)
• Hyaluronic acid serum
• Rich cream with ceramides
• Sleeping mask (3x/week)

Skip: Harsh cleansers, too much exfoliation

Sensitive Skin

Focus: Minimal routine, soothing ingredients

Essential Steps:

• Gentle cleanser (low pH, fragrance-free)
• Centella or panthenol serum
• Simple moisturizer
• Physical/mineral sunscreen

Skip: Fragrances, essential oils, strong actives

Combination Skin

Focus: Balance, multi-masking

Strategy: Use different products on different zones

• Oily T-zone: Lightweight products
• Dry cheeks: Richer products

Budget-Friendly Korean Skincare Routine

Budget Routine (₩100,000 / $77 USD total for 2-3 months)

1. Oil Cleanser: ₩15,000
2. Foam Cleanser: ₩10,000
3. Toner: ₩15,000
4. Serum: ₩20,000
5. Moisturizer: ₩20,000
6. Sunscreen: ₩20,000

Brands to Try: COSRX, Etude House, Innisfree, Some By Mi

Final Recommendations

For Beginners

Start with: Essential 5-step routine Add gradually: One new product every 2 weeks Focus on: Basics (cleanser, moisturizer, SPF) before actives

For Experienced

Customize: Full 10-step when time allows, streamline when busy Layer strategically: Multiple targeted serums for specific concerns Maintain: Consistency matters more than number of steps

For Dermatology Patients

Post-Treatment: Simplify to gentles only (cleanser, moisturizer, SPF) Active treatments: Coordinate with your dermatologist (don't overdo actives) Sunscreen: Non-negotiable after laser, peels, or any professional treatment

Conclusion

The Korean 10-step skincare routine isn't a rigid requirement—it's a flexible framework for layering targeted treatments based on your skin's needs. The key principles are:

1. Cleanse thoroughly (double cleanse at night)
2. Layer thin to thick (toner → essence → serum → cream)
3. Treat specific concerns (use targeted serums)
4. Hydrate adequately (multiple hydration layers)
5. Protect religiously (SPF50+ daily, no exceptions)

Whether you do 4 steps or 10, the Korean approach to skincare—prevention, hydration, and sun protection—delivers results. Start with the essentials, add steps as needed, and most importantly, be consistent.

Your skin is a long-term investment. The Korean 10-step routine isn't about perfection; it's about giving your skin the daily care it needs to stay healthy for decades to come.

Disclaimer: This guide provides general skincare information. For specific skin concerns or conditions, consult a board-certified dermatologist. Product recommendations are examples only, not endorsements.

Note: For information about professional dermatology treatments in Korea (lasers, injectables, procedures), see other guides on this site.